At Watches and Wonders, the Maison unveiled a rose gold Historiques American 1921 – and it’s oozing with star power.
Vacheron Constantin sits comfortably in the top tier of watchmaking, considered among the “Holy Trinity” alongside Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe. It’s been in the game since 1755, and has a knack for making watches that deliver high levels of artistic ingenuity and mega complex micro-mechanical feats (its Solaria Ultra Grand Complication packs in a record-breaking 41 complications, for example). Last week we saw these credentials on full blast at Watches and Wonders, where the brand unveiled new novelties including the Calibre 2550 Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin and Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Tourbillon Skeleton. But non-sang with an “it” watch appeal quite like the Historiques American 1921.
Cushion-cased, dressy, and possessing a weird and loveable angular dial, the Historiques American 1921 is incredibly distinctive, brimming with eyebrow-raising allure. This latest version pairs a flush pink gold case with blue Arabic numerals, and a sharp blue leather strap, which in the world of dress watches (a conservative place at times), is a welcome touch. It only gets more captivating when you take into account the ticker’s unclear origin stories. “The 1921 is a watch full of mystery and magic. One of its great appeals is the fact that it’s not entirely clear where it came from,” says Watch presenter, writer and founder of The Enthusiasts Justin Hast.
Courtesy of Vacheron Constantin
One such origin story – arguably the most well-known – stems back to 1919, when Vacheron made the Reference 11032. It was an early dabble into driving watches. The angled numerals allowed for drivers to check the time without having to adjust their hand position on the steering wheel. In 1921 they were produced for the US market (hence the name). And during this time, it is believed that Vacheron client and clergyman Samuel Parkes-Cadman enjoyed the design for its time-telling ease when worn on the underside of the wrist at the pulpit. Another potential origin is tied to trench watches, where soldiers were strapping and soldering lugs onto pocket watches which could have resulted in the off-centre dial. “All of it contributes and adds to the intrigue and excitement of the model. And I think for many people out there, it sums up the brand. It sums up what Vacheron is, which is elegance with a twist – tradition with a twist,” says Hast.
So why does all of this give the 1921 “it” watch potential? When you look at a watch like this, one that is truly unique in shape, coupled with an intriguing origin story, you’re left with something serious. “The wonderful cushion shape which, from every angle, gives you something else to admire with these audacious architectural lugs, the snailing on the sub dial being very contrasted, the dial itself in this thick paint, the thick numerals are just exquisite. All the different components come together, including the hands, to bring the design together in a really intriguing way. It’s a watch you don’t see very often.”
Outside of watch nerds who like weird timepieces, there is a growing appetite for shaped dress watches out there – although for Hast, the 1921 doesn’t have the hype status of other references from different brands… yet. That looks like it could be about to change. Just look at the slew of internet boyfriends increasingly stepping up and niching out their wrist checks. Tyler, the Creator wore a swirly Cartier Trinity at March’s Actor Awards. Michael B Jordan rocked vintage oval Piaget Limelight at the same event. And Bad Bunny showed he’s the proud owner of an ultra rare Cartier Crash ahead of his February Super Bowl show. These are three very famous guys with three wacky, lesser-seen dress watches. So while, scaled-down, shaped timpiece trend has largely been led by Cartier, Piaget, and Jaeger-LeCoultre on the red carpet so far, Vacheron can get down, too. And with a renewed take on the American 1921, the timing couldn’t be better. “In my view, we are once again seeing a return to smaller proportions, likely driven by a strong revival of vintage codes. Brands are adapting directly to this shift, especially those with a remarkable heritage like Vacheron Constantin,” says vintage watch dealer and founder of Otottoi Julien Toretto. “The American 1921 is a perfect example. It exists in different sizes, offering an ideal range whether you prefer a more restrained diameter or something larger. Alongside this vintage trend, where case sizes were generally smaller, we also see the rise of dress watches and shaped watches in general.”
Via Getty Images
Need any more convincing? Look no further than Mr Paul Anthony Kelly, star of Love Story: John F. Kennedy Jr. & Carolyn Bessette and noted internet boyfriend. The actor pulled up the Vanity Fair Oscars afterparty wearing a Vacheron American 1921 in 40mm on a brown strap. The move was perfectly timed ahead of the Watches and Wonders release (maybe more than a coincidence) and proved this watch’s “it” standing. And with the Met Gala around the corner, the stage is set for the 1921 to cement its red carpet status in 2026. Keep your eyes on those wrists folks.
