“They don’t shout, they purr”: Man About Town unpacks this Swiss running shoe’s unique creative positioning.
Art fairs. They’re packed with schmoozing, swishy coats, and lots of expensive creative works. Inside their walls you can expect buyers with big pockets, lots of champagne, and more recently, a fair amount of On sneakers, the athletic shoes instantly recognisable by their hollow and ‘pod-like’ soles. But how these cushioned runners strode into the art world is interesting.
In June, TikTok user @salome_drgg posted a clip from Art Basel, panning from the art to the floor, soundtracked by ABBA’s 1976 hit “Money, Money, Money”. The video spotlighted a curious commonality among the fair’s bona fide buyers – they were all wearing On sneakers, especially the sleek, low-profile Cloud 6 model. “POV: The best way to spot real buyers at Art Basel Preview,” it read. The post racked up over 14 million views – proof, if it were needed, that On has officially secured its footing in the art world.
If you’re wondering how they got here, the answer isn’t clear cut. “[Ons] used to be a meme for the 60+ high net worth collectors, but I think the field has opened up,” says Harriet Lloyd-Smith, Managing Editor of contemporary art magazine Plaster. “This year, I’ve seen gallerists, museum directors, and even fellow journalists flying the flag.”
Senior Curator at The Design Museum Danielle Thom hasn’t seen them around as much, but is aware of their presence, specifically amongst dealers, gallery assistants and PRs, mainly worn by men. “It’s very much the stereotypical ‘art world male’ look: nice chinos or cords, canvas chore coat, tortoiseshell glasses,” she says.
Lloyd-Smith noticed the On influx relatively recently, “around three years ago, during peak Succession-inspired quiet luxury/stealth wealth,” she says. So despite their sporty origins, Ons have become associated with a below-the-radar look, where sharp design and function merge. “If there’s any intentional message, it’s presumably related to the relatively low-key but expensive nature of these shoes, i.e. good taste without vulgarity,” says Thom.
So by wearing an understated runner, rather than a Louis Vuitton sneaker or Gucci Horsebit loafer, the wearer is eschewing traditional status symbols. “They say, ‘I am successful because I prioritise comfort’. It’s also about practicality: as an art world circus performer, you want to be seen to be busy, on the move, with places to be, art to see. Plus, who actually ties laces anymore,” says Lloyd-Smith.
The function element cannot be ignored. On was founded in the Swiss Alps by former professional athlete Olivier Bernhard, who set out on a mission to create the perfect running shoe, using a system of cloud pods that compress individually, in a sensation designed to mirror the feeling of walking on clouds. So when you’re navigating art fairs, galleries, and after parties, a cushioned sole has its benefits.
Photographer Wolfgang Tillmans attends a Frieze event in London wearing On sneakers. Via Getty Images.
And while tip-toeing the floorboards of Frieze in your Margiela Tabis looks good on Instagram, art fair vets know comfort is key. “I will no longer accept the post-art fair blister as par for the course. They are absurdly comfortable and one of the least visually offensive brands out there,” says Lloyd-Smith, who wears her On Cloudtilts with everything aside from actual activewear. “There’ll be at least one pair in every Eurostar Premier carry-on this week. Now we have Frieze London and Art Basel Paris back-to-back, we can’t afford to scrimp on comfort,” she says.
On’s move into the art sphere does feel largely organic, but it isn’t wholly by chance. In 2021, On partnered with Art Basel to host a series of walks and runs around the event, connecting the dopamine-boosting powers of movement and art. It’s one of a series of lifestyle pushes the brand has made in the last few years. Others include appointing Challengers star Zendaya and artist FKA Twigz as brand ambassadors, helping broaden the brand’s appeal beyond sport through ties to pop culture, and a link-up with LOEWE that has been ongoing since 2022. Most recently, the two brands worked on the Cloudsolo, an all new silhouette exclusive to the collaboration.
Yes, On sneakers are designed for sport. But they have enjoyed a triumphant high art ascension. No longer limited to old guys with huge pockets and a hankering for arch support, they have become the IYKYK shoe of choice for comfort-savvy art heads from across the spectrum, favoured for their stealth vibe and cushioned sole. Need more convincing? Take it from Lloyd-Smith. “They’re the opposite of a ‘pick-me’ shoe,” she says. “They don’t shout, they purr.”
Cover image courtesy of @LOEWE.
