The Swiss Watchmaker looks back into the archive to spotlight the kind of high-ticket items that really get the chronosseurs going.

Vintage IWCs are catnip for clued-up, heritage-driven watch collectors. But as with any mechanical object of a certain age, opportunities to lay one’s hands on one – one in decent condition and from a dependable source, at least – are scarce. That’s why the Swiss watchmaker has launched “IWC. Curated.” a new means for the growing population of watch nerds to scoop up rare, refurbished timepieces at select boutiques.

High-end brands selling certified pre-owned models in their luxury boutiques isn’t exactly new, but the way the Schaffhausen-based watchmaker is approaching it feels special. The concept, headed up by David Seyffer, IWC’s Museum Curator – when you’ve been in the game since 1868 like IWC, you’ve got enough firepower in your archive to warrant a museum – sees experts handpicking iconic pieces from across key eras in the company’s story to be serviced and sold in IWC boutiques in Schaffhausen, London, Dubai and Tokyo. It sees grails turned into everyday, wearable gems, destined for your wrist.

Among the first batch of “IWC. Curated.” watches available are a 1980s Aquatimer ref. 1822, joined by a Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph ref. 3750. There’s also a Navigator’s Wristwatch Mark 11 – a model adopted by the Royal Air Force from the mid-late 20th century – and a titanium Ocean Bund diver, used by German military divers on mine-clearing operations in the early 80s. These watches don’t just look good, but represent milestones for the brand. And the chance to own one – in working order and covered by IWC’s international warranty – proves a jackpot for die- hard collectors on the hunt for pieces of this calibre.

“I said, ‘Look, we have so much knowledge, why not make something we can offer to our customers,’” says Seyffer, who hopes the initiative will be a counterpart to IWC’s current product offering, allowing consumers to gain insight into the backstory and origins of modern timepieces in the flesh, beyond the Schaffhausen museum.

Despite his enthusiasm for the idea, this wasn’t a project that Seyffer and his team approached with haste. Before launching officially, they tested the waters last year, taking heavy-hitting vintage Portugiesers and Perpetual Calendars directly to their customers in Schaffhausen, Hong 73 A jackpot for die-hard watch collectors. Kong and Tokyo. A sense check, you could say, on whether the appetite for this kind of offering matched Seyffer and his team’s expectations.

One question you would imagine customers posed was, simply, how do they approach making an old watch new again? Firstly, “We look at the condition, and if it is possible to restore it,” Seyffer says. “For the museum, we do not restore the watches. So if you go to the museum, you might be surprised by the conditions. [Some are well-worn] because we want to show the authenticity of the watch. However, for the Curated programme, we don’t want the watch to be completely new-looking, but it should have the touch of a new-old watch. It’s always the service department that has to check, and if they say it’s in good condition and we can restore it with no problems [we give it a try].”

It’s a process that can take time. The period between the starting point and completion can span six months to a year, says Seyffer. It’s time-consuming, but it caters to a very specific need. With a full service, these watches aren’t showpieces you need to wear once in a blue moon – they’re rare, vintage grails with a new lease of life. For guys who dream of wearing their Pilot’s Watch from 1989 on the regular, the initiative is the ultimate answer to their prayers. If you’re a die-hard vintage head who winces at polishing and craves patina, it’s perhaps less for you. Seyffer agrees. However, with the cachet of the very company that made it, it’s hard to imagine that for most collectors, this route of acquiring gems from yesteryear wouldn’t be perceived as a win.

Think of “IWC. Curated.” as the professionally refurbished sports car – it might not be right for the grease- loving petrol head, but it is for those armed with a healthy bank balance and a yearning to add an iconic piece to their collection without any headaches. That’s not to say your 50-year Pilot’s Watch is ready for military-grade flying, or your Ocean Bund for another trip to the bottom of the ocean, however. “Even if you have a nice restored E-Type Jaguar, it won’t go speeding,” says Seyffer. “Go out and enjoy, but always treat them with respect.” It’s merely what IWC-type legacy deserves.

Photography by Fraser Chatham