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Fashion

A Zipper And Some Paint Made This Supreme Hoodie A Champion

Words by

Ollie Cox

According to data released by resale platform StockX, the streetwear brand’s collaboration with MM6 Maison Margiela boosted its secondary market sauce. 

Remember when a Supreme Box Logo was the coolest thing you could wear? Yearning for simpler times when bagging menswear grails just meant getting up early enough to secure a spot in the queue snaking around the block? The fever might be back, or so says StockX’s Big Facts Report. 

According to data pulled from the resale platform, Supreme apparel sales are up 19% year-over-year. Average price premiums (how much more expensive a product is comparatively to its retail benchmark) for the brand have jumped 11% to 41% in 2026. And the NYC label is also behind six of the 10 best-selling apparel releases on the marketplace. The first and second best selling Supreme items are Box Logos, specifically this year’s Supreme x MM6 Maison Margiela Box Logo Zip-Up hoodie. At the time of writing, a medium in the black colourway can be purchased for £492 (it retailed for £268, by the way). 

This hoodie was part of the second link-up between both brands that was unveiled in March this year. It launched alongside other items including a Schott leather jacket, co-branded Everlast boxing gloves and punchbag, jean jackets and Timberland 6-inch boots. All in all, it was a stacked offering packed with more traditional streetwear-leaning pieces and more  left-field accessories – all the trappings of a good link-up. These two brands coming together – Margiela’s diffusion line and a skate brand turned streetwear behemoth – is always going to make noise. But it was the hoodie that really sent the hype machine into overdrive. 

Supreme
Supreme

This zip-through sweatshirt was the first time that a zipper has been applied through the box logo, and the added paint splatter amped things further. It speaks to Margiela’s DNA, too. Martin Margiela is known for his deconstruction, pulling apart and reconstructing clothing (think exposed seams, and linings). The Box Logo is an instantly recognisable part of Supreme. Throw them together and you’ve got hypey menswear dynamite.

But there could be more at play. Supreme’s Supremiest queues – the ones that snaked around the block with eager shoppers (some armed with their parents’ credit cards) often centered around Box Logo releases during the brand’s peak hype era between 2014 and 2016. Why were people so mad for it? These simple T-shirts, crew necks and hoodies emblazoned with the brand’s Barbara Kruger-inspired logo were the coolest thing you could wear. They were incredibly hard to get, fuelled by insane demand and tight supply. To get your hands on one was to buy a sense of belonging, to join the cult. Supreme is the brand that trendy downtown skate rats wear in New York. Fashion insiders, artists, and scene kids like Chloë Sevigny and Mark Gonzales rock with the label, too. Wearing the Box Logo is buying into that.

Supreme
Supreme
Supreme

But like anything cool that gets blown up and becomes too popular, it lost some of its aura, spurred on by a menswear zeitgeist that ditched logos for cleaner, quieter silhouettes (just see the noise around Auralee and Our Legacy, for example). That’s not to say that Supreme lost its cool. In the years following its hyped-to-the-max run, it was still putting out good products that speak to its raw attitude. You’d probably have seen them on natural wine drinkers in Dover Street Market's Rose Bakery or a skater at Southbank (one of this writer’s most complimented garments is a pair of flight pants from Supreme’s Spring/Summer 2022 collection). 

They do say everything is cyclical. Maybe Supreme Box Logos are back because enough time has passed since the last hype wave. Maybe it’s nostalgia for a simpler time. Or perhaps it just needed a zip and some paint to change the batteries on the hype. 

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