In Florence, the Japanese designer unleashed an artful delivery of menswear bangers.
Ladies and Gentlemen, we might be looking at a newly appointed crown prince of enduring menswear: Soshi Otsuki.
At Pitti Uomo yesterday, the pressure was on. He’s fresh from winning the prestigious LVMH Prize, which offers mentorship and funding to emerging designers. His recent 1980s-style lookbooks boomed on social media. And being a guest designer at Pitti only added to the heat that filled the Santa Maria Novella.
Despite all of that, his Autumn/Winter 2026 collection cruised into proceedings, with a masterclass in indulgent, swishy tailoring. Trousers were pleated and high-waisted, jackets hung loose and wide. Shirts featured trompe-de-l’oeil ties tucked into a shirt and held rigidly in place. Then came glorious leather jackets and top coats layered over those enchanting suits.
These are clothes for the vibiest guy you know. He’s taking you to the coolest spot in town, you’re drinking whisky cocktails somewhere you can smoke inside, soundtracked by vinyl records. And he’s doing it all with the effortless sophistication the Italians call sprezzatura. Even when taken up a notch in proportion, with supersized triple-pleated trousers and shrunken cardigans, things never felt forced or out of place.
The collection also revealed a collaboration with Proleta Re Art, the Tokyo imprint known for its handcrafted patterned truckers using Japanese boro and sashiko techniques. This time it was applied to single-breasted suits, bridging Japanese innovation and craft-led tailoring legacy in the heart of menswear tradition.
Soshiotsuki was founded in 2015, and has long referenced Japan in its designs. The Wall Streetish suits that have been a cornerstone of its collections since Spring 2025 explore the country’s relationship with western fashion. The focus is particularly on the economic boom of the 1980s and ’90s where Armani became the ultimate status symbol, particularly among well-heeled salarymen. Only, the focus is subtly shifted, be it through kimono fabrics, shirt pockets for ties, and samurai-style slits, fusing east and west.
Anyway, Soshiotsuki didn’t need to feel any pressure. His AW26 collection was met with a rapturous standing ovation that filled the room. Its sprezzatura served the Japanese way.
