Man About Town shines the spotlight on the hidden gem menswear labels that live discreetly in Japan.
Fashion’s almighty obsession with Japanese labels and designers isn’t for nothing. Alongside Mount Rushmore candidates such as Rei Kawakubo and Yohji Yamamoto is a near-endless pool of talent that ranges from seasoned vets like Undercover’s Jun Takahashi to more lowkey up-and-comers like ssstein.
Some of these names, though, you’d probably only come across if you’ve made it to that side of the pond. You’d find them digging deep through second-hand gold at 2nd Street and Kindal or perusing the racks of stores like United Arrows or Beams. They’re names that primarily live and succeed in Japan – with a few exceptions of stockists at only the savviest of boutiques around the world – and require some elbow grease to uncover these gems.
Luckily, we’ve done all the hard work for you, so without further ado, here’s Man About Town’s list of Japanese menswear’s well-kept secrets.
Bibliotherk
The best way to sum up Bibliotherk’s clothes is the deadpan look on a model’s face – effortless nonchalance, with underlying intention and a pinch of grunge sentiments. Headed by Ryunosuke Hata, the brand seeks to create abstract shapes and silhouettes through fabric and hardware experimentation to recontextualise clothing we all know and love. Coats are constructed with a heavily structured 3L Moleskin and a belted fastening on the collar to mimic a funnel neck, whilst Carhartt Detroit-like work jackets are given a mud-coated linen makeover, keeping the rugged look with a flowy feel. Rather than flipping traditional items in an attempt to make them better, Bibliotherk’s versions are more like a troublemaking sibling: rebellious, anti and a lot more daring.
Rainmaker
What Japanese menswear designers have done so well for decades is capturing the perfect grey area between form and function, creating clothing that seamlessly blends into the everyday rotation. Rainmaker follows that same ethos, Japan-ifying Western styles with glorious double pleats, outlined lapels and asymmetrical cuts for some effortless flair. Their latest collection sees tailoring go extra big, with never-ending shoulders and ultra-wide trousers that would fit right in with Marty Mauser’s closet. Wearing Rainmaker makes quietly loud statements that will have onlookers not quite being able to put a finger on why you’re the most stylish person in the room, putting an Eastern twist on oversized smart casual.
Sasaki Satoru
When asked about his design aesthetic, Sasaki Satoru claimed that it was “weird luxury,” and there’s probably no better way to put it. Establishing the label in 2019 out in Kobe, there are some playful and rather quirky Prada-isms in his approach to the smart casual wardrobe, mixing busy patterns and bold colours with angular yet drapey tailoring. These are elevated garment-making through added pockets and panels, with styling and layering cues that add a colour-blocking edge for unorthodox style points.
Attachment
If you ever found yourself in Tokyo with your luggage lost and a whole lot of cash for some really good clothes, stumbling upon Attachment would be a godsend. Founded and led by Kazuyuki Kumagai, he’s a pupil of the esteemed Issey Miyake – you can tell. With a heavy emphasis on the modern metropolitan man’s wardrobe, the movement of the garments is a real highlight with swishy fabrics that flow with elegance as you slalom through the busy streets. This underlying elegance is somehow enhanced through its purposefully sloppy styling, embracing messy tucks, irregular creases and clashing styles. Their offering is vast, too, with elevated essentials for any closet state you might be in, with just the right amount of added interest to feel like a solid, unique investment.
Comoli
Comoli might be the real unsung hero of Japanese menswear. Often placed alongside Scandi favourites like Our Legacy and mfpen at insider-y boutiques, the founder Keijiro Komori puts a lot of importance on the air between the wearer and the clothes themselves. The garments are relaxed in nature, with forgiving silhouettes that look aloof rather than ill-fitting. Fabric weight is another big consideration for the Bunka Fashion College graduate, using only the upper echelon of fabrics like lamb leather with the perfect amount of sheen or garment-dyed cashmere for a lux feel. So, if your fashion inspiration is an off-duty stylist sifting through the streets in muted tones and a perfectly oversized ensemble that looks like it was thrown on without a single thought, Comoli is the place to look.
